I can remember the first time I arrived at Nexpa as if it was just minutes ago, that day was in 1981. We found Nexpa by accident; we were on a trip to Puerto Escondido. Upon arrival we found a beautiful coconut grove beside a river that led to what seemed to be a spectacular left point wave. Back then the entrance was different from where it is today. The setup looked unreal and eerie all in one, we did not know what to expect because it was the afternoon and windblown so we did not know if we had found a rideable wave or just a cool looking coconut grove for camping? The first night we arrived at Nexpa was unforgettable, while we were sleeping in our tents we were greeted by one of the worst earthquakes that to this day I have ever been in and I have been in quite a few. Add to the fact that we were sleeping on the ground. It becomes memorable to say the least.

Here’s how my first night in Nexpa went...As the earth began to shake, I can remember hearing my friends yelling and screaming bloody murder, can you imagine four dumb gringos alone and in the middle of the jungle. We all thought the earth was going to open up and swallow us because we had just invaded some sacred, forbidden territory. Well, beyond the earth moving, the yelling, screaming and the sleepless night we had, our lives did not end…quite the contrary. By morning, we were freaked out at what had happened the night before and found not a sole around but what we did find was perfect offshore winds with 10ft+ faces and one of the best left points I had ever surfed in my life. We found an unpolished diamond in its greatest form, fresh, untainted and pure. We were stoked to say the least, four wave hungry surfers and Shangri-La all to ourselves. 

If I remember right, we did not even know the name of the place until staying there for a week or so.

When I put everything into perspective that first night at Nexpa in 1981 was not an ending but the beginning of a journey that would shape and define my life into what it is today. I am thankful for having been given the opportunity to be a part of Nexpa back in the day. The people, the place, the wave and the Nexpa feeling has been a part of me since that first day we stumbled upon Nexpa. I cannot remember a day going by without having thoughts about how Nexpa was back then.

Today, I live in Cancun, Mexico with my wife and son. I have lived in Cancun since 1985, although I have lived short periods of time in other areas during those years. My story starts back in 1981 when I first started traveling to Nexpa and 6 months later eventually living there in a hut that I built on stilts behind Sophia and Cleto’s house. 

For the record, I am not a writer and do not profess to be but I have for many years wanted to share my Nexpa experience with people that have the same love for Nexpa that I have. Put it this way, I will not win a Pulitzer Award for this. I write this from my heart and not something that I studied in a classroom; I was terrible in school anyway.  I am highly motivated to put my experiences to written words disregarding my inexperience as a writer. That being said, let’s move onto the now.

Due to current commitments, I seldom travel back to Nexpa but in the near future hope to spend most of my time there, surfing and living. Regardless of my current distance from Nexpa my love for the place and wonderful memories will never be forgotten. I do not think a day passes that I do not have thoughts about Nexpa and what it would have been like to never have left there. Part of the person I am today is because of Nexpa and I am sure that there are hundreds and if not more of us out there that feel the same way.

I would like to clarify that by no means were my friends or I the ones that discovered Nexpa. Even back in the early eighties from time to time there were a few surfers and surfer smugglers that visited Nexpa. But, what I can say is more often than not I did get it without surfers. There were times when I actually looked forward to other surfers showing up.

I am currently putting together my complete Nexpa Stories online book, look for this in the near future. If you would like to be notified when it comes out just send us your email.